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Misc Gardening Thread

SD said:
Couple things about this the fungus lives in the soil so even if you rip out a half inch it still might be in the profile below that and it still may be present other areas in the lawn so it can easily be brought back into that area. I hate to sound like a salesman for the local sod farms but honestly if you go the removal and replace route you might want to look into a sod. When you look at drought and disease resistance natural centipede and bermuda are the worst, seed is in the middle, sod is the best. You can probably get 10 rolls of tifblair centipede from super sod for less than $100 to cover your issues. If I could do it all over again I would sod my yard vs seed I would also probably go with zoysia over bermuda/centipede
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So couple of dumb questions. I think I'm going to aerate, dethatch and put down some Scotts disease ex - only need to put it on the affected areas correct, not the whole lawn? Also, I looked and prices really aren't horrible for the sod as you mentioned. If I decide to replace some of the affected areas with sod, should I treat before or after I put the sod down or is it even necessary to treat if I go the route of tearing up and placing sod?
 
My opinion is, you need to treat the area with the fungus, before you put down sod. If it’s a soil borne fungus, if you just lay sod on top, it will just infect the new sod!
 
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metwannabe said:
So couple of dumb questions. I think I'm going to aerate, dethatch and put down some Scotts disease ex - only need to put it on the affected areas correct, not the whole lawn? Also, I looked and prices really aren't horrible for the sod as you mentioned. If I decide to replace some of the affected areas with sod, should I treat before or after I put the sod down or is it even necessary to treat if I go the route of tearing up and placing sod?
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I'd treat the whole thing or at least areas close to the diseased area to be safe.

Now as for the new sod I don't have a great answer. Putting the fungicide out on the ground is likely to not kill it, most fungicides provide resistance to the plant it doesn't actually kill the fungus in the soil. The sod itself is likely to have been treated at the farm though so it should have sold built in resistance initially so you can treat after its rooted (4-6 weeks)
 
SD said:
I'd treat the whole thing or at least areas close to the diseased area to be safe.

Now as for the new sod I don't have a great answer. Putting the fungicide out on the ground is likely to not kill it, most fungicides provide resistance to the plant it doesn't actually kill the fungus in the soil. The sod itself is likely to have been treated at the farm though so it should have sold built in resistance initially so you can treat after its rooted (4-6 weeks)
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Think I'll aerate and dethatch plus treat for now and maybe see how that does. Thanks for advice
 
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buckinbronco said:
Nope, no dog. The cluster of spots is only in like at 10' x 10' area; the rest of my lawn is fine.
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Can you take a close up of one of the brown spots and some of the green around them?

It looks like brown patch and it can tell by lesions on the existing green grass.
 
buckinbronco said:
View attachment 118759View attachment 118760
Here is a couple close ups. The grass is a little wet from the rain.
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Def brown patch you can see the lesions on some of the green leaves. Since you have a relatively small area I would hit it with liquid bayer advanced fungus control that'll stop the spread quickly on the existing grass and help start the healing (it may yellow it out some but it's ok, it also stinks). In about 15-21 days apply scotts diseases ex granules. You should have pretty significant healing and recovery in about 30 days
 
SD said:
Def brown patch you can see the lesions on some of the green leaves. Since you have a relatively small area I would hit it with liquid bayer advanced fungus control that'll stop the spread quickly on the existing grass and help start the healing (it may yellow it out some but it's ok, it also stinks). In about 15-21 days apply scotts diseases ex granules. You should have pretty significant healing and recovery in about 30 days
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Awesome, thank you for your help!
 
SD said:
Def brown patch you can see the lesions on some of the green leaves. Since you have a relatively small area I would hit it with liquid bayer advanced fungus control that'll stop the spread quickly on the existing grass and help start the healing (it may yellow it out some but it's ok, it also stinks). In about 15-21 days apply scotts diseases ex granules. You should have pretty significant healing and recovery in about 30 days
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Change your name to grass doctor!
 
buckinbronco said:
Has anyone converted to a clover lawn? Thinking about doing it for my back yard, but it is pretty shady back there.
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My yard converted to a dandelion lawn before I moved!
Seriously, does it get any sun, like 3-4 ours ? Is it deep, dense shade or like filtered sunlight most of the day?
 
If any of you plant nerds want to learn stuff, I highly recommend this!!A28397A6-E92A-451D-B315-0B1B63618C55.png
 
Tarheel1 said:
My yard converted to a dandelion lawn before I moved!
Seriously, does it get any sun, like 3-4 ours ? Is it deep, dense shade or like filtered sunlight most of the day?
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It probably gets a couple hours of decent sunlight, other than that it's filtered sunlight/shade. There is already some clover growing back there so I suppose that is a good sign. Might sow it this fall or next spring.
 
buckinbronco said:
It probably gets a couple hours of decent sunlight, other than that it's filtered sunlight/shade. There is already some clover growing back there so I suppose that is a good sign. Might sow it this fall or next spring.
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Sounds like a good idea. I think I’ve read clover loves poor soil! So I wouldn’t do anything elaborate, like top dressing or starter fertilizer. I’ll be interested to hear about the results
 
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